The Toyono area (Toyono Town and Nose Town) is surrounded by high mountains and has a cool climate, making it known as the "Karuizawa of Osaka." We invited Yoriko Utsunomiya, who runs a local media outlet based in Toyono Town and promotes the area through various projects, as our guide, and toured recommended spots while hiking along the natural mountain paths.

The Toyono area is located in northwest Osaka. Getting there from the city center may seem like a bit of a hassle, but in fact, it's only a quick 50-minute train ride from Umeda to Myokenguchi Station, which we'll introduce here. Surprisingly close, this little-known tourist area awaits you on the Nose Railway, where rural mountain scenery will make you wonder, "Is this really Osaka?" Surrounded by mountains over 600 meters above sea level, this area is sometimes called "Osaka's Karuizawa" due to its low temperatures throughout the year. The diverse hiking trails scattered throughout the mountains offer the opportunity to enjoy the changing scenery of the four seasons.

This time, we were guided by Utsunomiya Yoriko, who runs local media and events in Toyono, and hiked Mt. Myoken, a 660m-high mountain designated as one of Osaka's top 100 green spots. She introduced us to a plan that will leave you feeling filled with joy as you trace history, including Yoshikawa Hachiman Shrine, which dates back to the Heian period, historic sites remaining on the old approach to the mountain, and Mt. Nose myoken-san, a sacred place for worshipping the North Star. Why not spend a day experiencing the nature of the satoyama and the warmth of the local people, detoxifying both body and mind?

Start from Myokenguchi Station, the terminal station of the Nose Electric Railway Myoken Line

It takes about 50 minutes to get to Myokenguchi Station, the terminal station of the Nose Electric Railway, from Umeda, and the closer you get the greener the scenery outside your window will become. Known as the northernmost station in Osaka, this station was named after its role as the gateway to Mt. Myoken, and its charming small station building is full of local charm.

"It's a little cooler here compared to the city, but the air is clean and refreshing," said Utsunomiya, welcoming us with a smile. Today, she is an expert on the charms of the Toyono area, and she will show us a model itinerary to enjoy the whole day. Let's set off on this exciting one-day tour!

First, head to the Toyono Town Tourist Information Center in front of the station. The information center distributes hiking maps for free, and you can learn about the characteristics and precautions of each route. If you book a volunteer guide in advance, they will guide you to the trailhead while explaining the history of the Toyono area.

Check the large sign in front of the information center to see the hiking trails on Mt. Myoken. The cable lift, which was the main route to the summit, was sadly discontinued in 2023, but there are still five hiking trails that lead to the summit (there are also car access routes).

This time, I chose the Shintakimichi Course, which is about an hour and 20 minutes one way and is recommended for beginners. There is a single path leading from the entrance to the summit, and the path, which flourished as a shrine approach during the Meiji and Taisho eras, is dotted with old torii gates and abandoned houses, making for a picturesque hike.

As you leave the station, turn left and you'll see Hanaore Kaido Nose myoken-san." This approach, which has flourished since the mid-Edo period, was once lined with inns, teahouses, souvenir shops and other establishments, making it a very lively area.

"The name 'Hanaori Kaido' (Hanaore Kaido) apparently comes from the fact that when people transported goods produced in Yoshikawa Village in carts, they would pick (and break) flowers that bloomed on the side of the road," explained the volunteer guide. Utsunomiya seemed surprised, saying, "I never knew a place name we use so casually had such an origin!" He added, "Learning about these things makes me see myself and the town in greater detail, and it's fun and addictive."

Even today, streetlights and marker stones remain on Hanaore Kaido. The photo shows a stone lantern made with the hope that this area, which has suffered three major fires, would not be affected by disasters.

One of the attractions of hiking is being able to enjoy the seasonal plants and trees (the interview was conducted in mid-November).

 

This time we will introduce Mt. Myoken, but Toyono Town also has many other courses that allow you to experience nature, such as Mt. Kodaiji and the surrounding Satoyama area. The volunteer guides are all very knowledgeable, so if you meet one at the information center, be sure to ask them for recommendations on places to see.

Toyono Town Tourist Information Center

114 Yoshikawa, Toyono-cho, Toyono-gun, Osaka Prefecture

Google maps

Business hours: 9:00-12:00
Closed: 3rd Wednesday, Obon, New Year's holidays
Phone number: 072-734-6758
*Volunteer guides must be booked at least two weeks in advance. English-speaking guides are limited in number, so they are not always available.
Access: Immediately after getting off at Myokenguchi Station
Official website

About mountain climbing
Please check the route and weather in advance, and be sure to prepare a map, compass, and other necessary equipment. We also recommend that you take advantage of mountain insurance.

Pray for safe hiking at this unique shrine beloved by the local community

Before entering the mountain trail, pray for a safe hike at Yoshikawa Hachiman Shrine, the local guardian deity. This historic shrine was founded by Minamoto no Yorinaka during the Heian period and enshrines the 15th Emperor, Emperor Ojin, as its main deity.

As the temple is located close to Myokenguchi Station, the terminus of the Nose Electric Railway, the temple grounds have an exhibition of retired Hankyu trains, as well as irresistible gifts for railway enthusiasts, such as "Nose Omikuji with railway themes Nose Electric Railway charm" and "Train-themed Fortune Telling Slips." If you're lucky, you might even get to meet Izume, the sacred horse that has 21,000 followers and is a hot topic for its humorous tweets in Kansai dialect.

The offering box, which is said to be the only thing that survived a major fire at the end of the Edo period, remains to this day.

Retired vehicles are on display within the shrine grounds. Please ask the chief priest before taking photos. Provided by: Yoshikawa Hachiman Shrine

Izume the sacred horse appears at New Year's visits to shrines and festivals. You'll be lucky if you can meet him while visiting the shrine!

There are also scenes that give us a glimpse of the close relationship between Izume and Miyaji.

 

This familiar shrine is open to local residents, and I even went there for my eldest daughter's Shichi-Go-San ceremony. Seasonal festivals, the Spring and Autumn Festivals, include Yutateshinji, where cherry blossom petals dance dynamically, and gagaku concerts. The location, surrounded by the shrine forest, creates a synergistic effect, making you feel like you've been transported to another world. You can also enjoy the traditional rice cake scattering ceremony.

Yoshikawa Hachiman Shrine

936 Yoshikawa, Toyono-cho, Toyono-gun, Osaka Prefecture

Google maps

Phone number: 080-3775-2050
Access: 1.1 km from Myokenguchi Station, about 17 minutes on foot
Official website

Hike along the charming old approach road

As you continue along Hanaore Kaido, you will see the Myoken no Mori Cable car station. Once you pass this point, there are no restrooms or vending machines until you reach the summit, so if you are worried about this, it's best to stop by. To the right of the station is the entrance to the Shintakimichi Trail. You'll finally be entering the mountain trail.

The autumn mountain path is full of charm as you walk through the rustling leaves. Once you pass through the torii gate that appears early on, the steep slope continues all the way to the summit. "It may be tough for beginner hikers, but it's worth stopping occasionally to enjoy the moss-covered historical sites scattered here and there in the first half of the route, and the murmuring of the river flowing beside you in the second half," says Utsunomiya.

There are various stone monuments along the approach to the shrine.

Right next to Shirataki Inari Shrine there is a stone statue of a fox, a messenger of the gods.

Gazing at the crystal clear spring water makes you feel as if your soul is being cleansed.

 

After about an hour and a half of climbing, encouraging each other, we safely arrived at the temple at the top of the mountain, Nose myoken-san.

Nose myoken-san, a sacred place for worshipping the North Star where the King of the Stars descended

This sacred site, said to have been founded by Gyoki over 1,200 years ago, is a Nichiren sect temple dedicated to Myoken Daibosatsu, the god of the North Star who governs good fortune and the performing arts. It is known as a global holy place for North Star worship, and a romantic legend remains that the King of the Stars descended to the mountain.

First, we visited the Kaiunden (main hall), which enshrines the Myoken Daibosatsu. The Nose family crest, Kiritake Yahazu-jjuji Yahazujuji (cut bamboo and arrowhead cross), which is also the symbol of Mt. Myoken, is scattered throughout the temple.

Next to the main hall is the magnificent water purification hall donated by the fourth Nakamura Utaemon, where you can enjoy "Utaemon's Water," natural water pumped up from 200 meters underground on Mt. Myoken. According to the deputy chief priest, it is "ultra-soft water," and has a very mellow taste, having been nurtured in beech forests that have existed since the Ice Age. You can also fill up the water from the tap next to the water purification hall and take it home with you.

Eight sacred horse statues of various sizes have been enshrined on the grounds, representing the number of the Big Dipper plus one complementary star. One notable example is the "Motoriuma" Modoriuma), which was donated as a metal statue during the Pacific War but returned from the battlefield because it was made of stone. Apparently, many people pray for the safe return of their loved ones from travel or hospitalization. Try to find it while you're visiting.

"Everyone stroked him and he became shiny, so he was mistaken for metal. He came back because they thought he was a stone. It makes me feel a sense of familiarity with him..." says Utsunomiya, gazing lovingly at Modoriuma.

Don't miss the panoramic view from the observation deck on the way to the main shrine. On a clear day, you can see all the way from Osaka Bay to Awaji Island.

Near the observation deck is the believers' hall "Seirei," which was built in 1998 and is used mainly by believers. It is not usually open to the public, but you will be captivated by its unique design, which features a star, the root of the faith, and Kiritake Yahazu-jjuji cross as its motif.

There is a lot to see in the spacious grounds.

Adorable "horse fortunes" are given out at the temple office.

There is also a sign indicating that this is the border between Osaka and Hyogo prefectures.

 

The sutras at Mt. Myoken have a powerful beat, and the chanting that resonates with overtones is so cool it feels like a mountaintop rave!? Apparently, sutras are chanted four times a day at 9:30, 11:00, 14:00, and 16:00 in the sutra hall on the temple grounds. Be sure to give it a listen when you visit!

Nose myoken-san

661 Nomanaka, Nose-cho, Toyono-gun, Osaka Prefecture

Google maps

Opening hours: 9:00-16:30
Phone number: 072-739-0991
Official website

Enjoy a spectacular view and a rewarding lunch at a traditional mountaintop cafe

Our next destination was a traditional Japanese cafe nestled within the grounds of Nose myoken-san. Run by a mother and son duo, they serve lunch made with plenty of seasonal vegetables sourced from contracted farmers, as well as homemade desserts.

The location is amazing, with a large window overlooking the mountains! Just as the sun peeked out from behind the clouds, we were able to enjoy the beautiful scenery.

They offer a seasonal lunch set consisting of a main dish of pasta or pizza, soup, salad, and three different side dishes of the day (the food menu is not available on Fridays, and the main dish changes depending on the day of the week). This time, we ordered the Genovese Fresh Pasta, which uses home-grown basil. Utsunomiya praised it highly, saying, "You can really feel the careful hospitality in the way the ingredients are carefully selected for each dish and the ingenuity in the cooking. It's the perfect reward lunch after a hike."

A roasted green tea parfait for autumn. All the ingredients on top, such as Taiwanese castella and chestnut cake, are handmade.

A Japanese-style room where you can relax. The large windows on one side give it a sense of openness.

 

This Italian restaurant is full of attention to detail, using home-grown vegetables and homemade fresh pasta. You can experience the seasonal flavors that are unique to this region. Thanks to the unique climate of "Karuizawa, Osaka," the water and air are fresh, which means the vegetables and rice are delicious. The Toyono area is full of hidden gourmet spots!

CAFFE STELLINA

661 Nomanaka, Nose-cho, Toyono-gun, Osaka Prefecture

Google maps

Business hours: 10:00-16:00 (last order 15:30)
Closed: Wednesdays, Thursdays, and irregular holidays (closed for winter holidays from December to February; check Instagram for details)
Phone number: 090-8153-4339
*If you are coming with a group of 5 or more, you must make a reservation by the day before.
Instagram

Take a break after descending the mountain and buy souvenirs

After descending the mountain, stop by Kametani Main Store, located right in front of Myokenzan Station, for a break and some souvenir shopping. In addition to selling local specialties such as Yamaguchi natto, which is made in a factory in Toyono Town, the store also serves meals made with local ingredients such as wild boar meat.

If you're feeling a little hungry, we recommend the specialty "Shishi Fruit" made with wild boar meat and "Nose Ginger Ale" made with natural water from Nose.

A wide variety of homemade bread and baked goods are available for takeout. Photo: Yoriko Utsunomiya

Wild boar and venison jerky are also perfect as snacks. Photo: Yoriko Utsunomiya

 

If you love bread, be sure to check out the newly opened homemade bread corner. It's also one of the few restaurants in town that serves alcohol, so it's a great place to toast with some of their famous wild boar dishes after a hike!

Kametani Main Store

143-3 Yoshikawa, Toyono-cho, Toyono-gun, Osaka Prefecture

Google maps

Opening hours: 9:00-18:00 (until 17:00 in winter), dining in the store: 11:00-18:00 (last orders 17:30)
Closed: Mondays (if Monday is a public holiday, closed the following weekday) and the second Tuesday of every month
Phone number: 072-738-1122
Access: Immediately after getting off at Myokenguchi Station
Official website

A must-see game restaurant for those who want to enjoy Toyono to the fullest

Our final recommendation is Auberge Yamagami, a game restaurant with Hotels run by owner-chef Tadahiko Yamagami, who moved from Osaka City after being captivated by Toyono's natural environment and fertile soil. Located in the Takayama district, a short distance from Myokenguchi Station, the restaurant serves a menu centered around game caught by hunting, with rice and vegetables grown on the farm.

The restaurant space is warm and cozy, decorated with antique-style furniture. You can hear the crackling of firewood from the fireplace, creating a cozy atmosphere.

The chef wanted to "create a local specialty," so he reclaimed abandoned rice terraces and began cultivating grapes there. He then opened a winery, "Toyono Takayama Winery," next to the restaurant. Currently, production is very limited, so the wine is brewed as a special item that can only be enjoyed by customers of the restaurant. Pairing dishes made with locally grown vegetables and game with wine brewed on the same land... Isn't this a truly luxurious experience?

Another great thing about this hotel is that it is within walking distance of many sightseeing spots, such as the Takayama Rice Terraces, where rice paddies line the mountain slopes, and the monument to the birthplace of the Christian feudal lord Takayama Ukon. If you want to enjoy Toyono even more, why not book a one-night stay with two meals and enjoy a stroll through the countryside from the morning? Relaxing and savoring delicious game dishes is sure to soothe your body after a long day of hiking.

*Please note that the hotel is located far from the Myokenguchi Station area, so please check how to get there before making a reservation.

Up to 10 people can stay at the hotel at one time, so it's a great place to invite family and friends over for a fun time. By the way, the long-awaited local wine is scheduled to be released in the spring of 2025. Make sure to make your reservation early!

Auberge Yamagami

23 Takayama, Toyono-cho, Toyono-gun, Osaka Prefecture

Google maps

Business hours: 11:30-14:30 (last entry 13:30), 17:00-21:00 (last entry 19:30)
Closed: Tuesday to Thursday (reservations required by the day before (same-day reservations possible depending on availability))
Phone number: 072-734-7365
Access: If traveling by public transportation from Myokenguchi Station, take the Nose Electric Railway to Myokenguchi Station, then get off at Tokiwadai Station. Take a demand taxi to Tokiwadai Station, then get off at the Chochochoro-Romi bus stop. Auberge Yamagami provides a shuttle service from the Chochochoro-Romi bus stop.
* Demand taxis must be reserved in advance.
Official website

Take a heartwarming little trip to the Toyono area in northern Osaka, surrounded by nature and human kindness in the countryside.

"We hope you enjoyed this one-day tour, where you were able to enjoy the soothing scenery unique to satoyama and feel the warmth and energy of the people who cherish their town. In addition to the spots we showed you this time, Toyono has many other attractions! If you take a drive, you can also visit stylish cafes and general stores," says Utsunomiya.

The Toyono area is full of attractions, including hiking trails leading to Mt. Myoken, unique shrines and temples, a rewarding lunch with a spectacular view, and souvenir shops stocking local specialties. It's a short, easy trip from Umeda, about 50 minutes by train, so be sure to check it out.

A person involved in this article

Text

Yuka Muguruma

Photo

Yuji Takatsu

Edit

Mariko Takashima

Direction

NINGEN Editorial Department（NINGEN Inc.）

*The information listed is current as of January 2025. Please check the website of each store or facility for the latest opening hours.