Discover Kansai

Retrace the steps of ancient pilgrims and trek an old pilgrimage route to Koyasan, that most holy of Japanese Buddhist sites

Koyasan, also known as Mount Koya, has been the spiritual destination for those seeking salvation for over one thousand years. Located in the misty mountains of Wakayama Prefecture deep in the Kii Peninsula, Koyasan has also been a test of endurance for the faithful, who would often take months to get there. Today, there are more convenient ways to get to Koyasan, with modern-day visitors relying on Japan’s efficient train network and the cable-car for the last steep ascent up the mountain. But for those who enjoy nature and the outdoors, and the chance to experience first-hand the spiritual air that pervades the region, then this 21km day-trek along the old Choishimichi road will make you feel part of Koyasan’s long history.

The esoteric spiritual world of Koyasan is connected with the outside world through a network of ancient routes. There are seven main routes snaking through the Kii Peninsula from different directions. These routes all form part of the Kumano Kodo, one of only two pilgrimage routes in the world designated as an UNESCO World Heritage. Now part of Koya-Ryujin Quasi-National Park, it is believed that its eight mountain peaks and central basin resemble a lotus flower, one of Buddhism’s most auspicious symbols.

The Choishimichi route to Koyasan from Kudoyama Station, which is on the Nankai Koya line operated by Nankai Electric Railways, is one of the oldest. The route’s name comes from the large stone stupas (or choishi) that line the path – and there’s 180 of them that you’ll pass on the way up! They were built as beacons to pilgrims to guide their ascent and are numbered in descending order.

The first choishi is located at Jison-in Temple, near Kudoyama Station. From there, follow the well-maintained forested path which weaves through dense woods of cedar, pine, rhododendron and bamboo. You’ll also pass by old farming hamlets, rice fields, the odd tea house and numerous small temples and shrines along the way.

There’s quite a sense of achievement when you pass through the Daimon, the towering vermillion-red entrance gate that formally marks the entrance to the Koyasan complex. Walk on to stately Kongobu-ji Temple to mark your arrival at this holy mountain sanctuary and the end of the Choishimichi trek. Kongobu-ji is one of Koyasan’s most important sites, being the headquarters of the Shingon Buddhist sect in Japan and home to a number of exceptionally beautiful fusuma sliding door paintings as well as Japan’s largest rock garden.

If you have time, consider staying at a unique renovated railway hotel. Just one station along from Kudoyama Station on the Nankai Koya line, the Railway Building Hotel at Koyashita Station has been sensitively designed, maintaining many of the features from the original 1920s building. This small hotel forms part of the Nipponia project, an organization which renovates traditional buildings for modern use, preserving their cultural value and historical character.

While you’re at Kudoyama Station where the Choishimichi path starts, don't miss Rice Ball Stand Kudo, also associated with the Nipponia project. This little outlet uses locally grown rice freshly cooked on the premises in traditional rice pots to make omusubi rice balls for hungry trekkers and pilgrims.

Nankai Electric Railways also operates a special scenic train called “Tenku” with especially wide windows to enjoy the passing scenery, and which runs between Hashimoto and Koyasan Gokurakubashi stations. For more information about Nankai’s trains, schedules and combined fare packages, visit their English sites:

https://www.nankaikoya.jp/en/stations/easily.html

https://www.howto-osaka.com/en/ticket/

If you have time, consider staying at a unique renovated railway hotel. Just one station along from Kudoyama Station on the Nankai Koya line, the Railway Building Hotel at Koyashita Station has been sensitively designed, maintaining many of the features from the original 1920s building. This small hotel forms part of the Nipponia project, an organization which renovates traditional buildings for modern use, preserving their cultural value and historical character.

While you’re at Kudoyama Station where the Choishimichi path starts, don't miss Rice Ball Stand Kudo, also associated with the Nipponia project. This little outlet uses locally grown rice freshly cooked on the premises in traditional rice pots to make omusubi rice balls for hungry trekkers and pilgrims.

Nankai Electric Railways also operates a special scenic train called “Tenku” with especially wide windows to enjoy the passing scenery, and which runs between Hashimoto and Koyasan Gokurakubashi stations. For more information about Nankai’s trains, schedules and combined fare packages, visit their English sites:

https://www.nankaikoya.jp/en/stations/easily.html

https://www.howto-osaka.com/en/ticket/