Our 1-Day Local Tour series takes you to the best-kept secrets of Osaka known only to insiders. This time, we will introduce Tondabayashi Jinaimachi, located in southern Osaka! Michiyo Kamei, a Jinaimachi local, will guide you to stores and buildings full of individuality that blend into the historical townscape that has been around since medieval times.

Tondabayashi City, located in the southeastern part of Osaka Prefecture, is a town blessed with nature and history. It has attractions like Tondabayashi Savor Farm, a vast agricultural park five times the size of Hanshin Koshien Stadium where you can enjoy nature in all four seasons. There’s also the famous Takidani Fudo Myooji Temple, which is one of the three great Fudo temples in Japan. Tondabayashi is well-known for the largest fireworks display in Japan, PL Art of Fireworks. The city is also home to the Great Peace Prayer Tower (commonly known as PL Peace Tower), a 180-meter-tall white pagoda built by the Church of Perfect Liberty. In addition to being the largest tower of its kind in Japan, it’s one of Tondabayashi City’s representative landmarks.

After a 30-minute train ride from Osaka Abenobashi Station on the Kintetsu Minami-Osaka Line and Nagano Line, walk past the roundabout at Tondabayashi Station and cross at the traffic light. You will see a gate marked “Jinaimachi Honmachi Dori” and a facility for tourists called Kirameki Factory. Beyond this gate is Jinaimachi, an area that retains the atmosphere of the Edo period and is lined with unique stores.

Jinaimachi is a religious autonomous city with a Jodo Shinshu Buddhist temple at its center, defended by a moat and earthen mounds. It developed alongside the Kosho-ji Temple Betsuin about 450 years ago. The area, which stretches approximately 470 meters from east to west and 400 meters from north to south, is the only area in Osaka Prefecture designated as a preservation district for important traditional buildings. As a result, it is home to a series of temples and merchant houses dating back to the Edo period.

We asked Michiyo Kamei, a paper-engraving artist, to share her recommendations for stores in Jinaimachi and trivia to liven up a walk around town. She’s run her store in Jinaimachi for about 10 years, and her love for the town shines through in her tour!

Renovated mirin warehouse! Paper sculpture studio Konjyaku no Tamatebako and coffee roaster Heizo

Walking along Jounomon-suji, the main street of Jinaimachi, you will see on the east side a mirin (rice wine for cooking) and umeshu (plum wine) warehouse, built as the Sato family residence at the end of the Edo period. One corner of the building is now used as a store, housing Kamei’s studio Konjyaku no Tamatebako and local coffee roaster Heizo.

The walls of Konjyaku no Tamatebako are full of Kamei’s works! You can spend hours admiring the delicacy and artistry of the displayed carved paper (kirigami). The designs are often exhibited at overseas art exhibitions, and many utilize traditional patterns to evoke a sense of Japanese aesthetics.

Ms. Kamei came to Osaka from her hometown of Ehime for university. She found out about Jinaimachi about 20 years ago and began visiting the area frequently on her days off. One day, an acquaintance asked her if she’d like to have a studio in Jinaimachi for a month. From there, she dedicated herself to her craft and has spent the last ten years working locally. In 2022, she moved to Jinaimachi.

Her studio is filled with works ranging widely in size and scale. Ms. Kamei often participates in overseas art exhibitions. “I want to share delicate and beautiful traditional Japanese culture with the world.” There are places in Jinaimachi where her works are displayed; looking for them while out and about is one of the pleasures of strolling around the area.

“Ajara,” an paper lantern representing the world of oiran (courtesans)

“Mandala of Vajrayana – Wisdom,” exhibited at Carrousel du Louvre and World Art Dubai

“Peacock’s Feelings” In recent years, Ms. Kamei has been working with color.

 

My works are not just two-dimensional, but also three-dimensional with effect such as lighting. I also offer trial lessons (reservation required) in the art of kirigami), so if you are interested, please feel free to contact me through my official website!

Konjyaku no Tamatebako

Address: Inside Benibeikura, 23-39 Tondabayashi-cho, Tondabayashi City

Google map

Business hours: 11:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.
Closed: Tuesday and Wednesday
Official website

Next to Konjyaku no Tamatebako is Heizo, a coffee roaster with the aroma of coffee beans filling the air. The shop sells about 15 kinds of coffee beans carefully selected from farms around the world. The coffee beans are freshly roasted right in front of you once you order! There is a large curved beam in the store that’s said to be very rare, and accordingly, it was carefully left untouched during the renovation.

When I am working in my studio, I can smell the delicious aroma of coffee beans wafting from next door. The sound of the roasting machine also makes formakes for good background music. I recommend the Heizo Blend, which has a full-bodied flavor!

Coffee mamenokura heizo

Address: Inside Benibeikura, 23-39 Tondabayashi-cho, Tondabayashi City

Google map

Business hours: 10:00 a.m.-6:00 p.m.
Closed: Tuesday and Wednesday
Language: only Japanese
Phone number: (+81) 90-5461-9150
Official website

Enjoy the Edo period townscape and visit the Kosho-ji Betsuin at the center of Jinaimachi

Jinaimachi is lined with about 50 stores, mainly restaurants. One of the charms of the area is the elegant townscape you’ll see on your way to your restaurant of choice. Jounomon-suji, the main street and one of the 100 best streets in Japan, has no telephone poles or power lines, making you feel as if you have traveled back in time to the Edo period. It might be fun to put your smartphone away and walk down the street just like a merchant of the time.

Shinobi-gaeshi, or “ninja repellerbacks,” a traditional security feature made by lining up pointy bamboo and timber, are found on many local houses!

Center-cut canals are wastewater trenches dug in the center of a city block.

 

Ms. Kamei, who has always loved history and old designs, is very knowledgeable about Jinaimachi. As she guided us around the town, she often stopped to tell us more about the town’s history and architecture.

The Tower of Perfect Liberty can be seen from most places in Jinaimachi. The view of both an Edo-era townscape and the huge white tower in one place is unique to Tondabayashi City. On the right is Jokoku-ji Temple, located on the west side of Jinaimachi and said to have a history of more than 700 years.

Located almost in the center of Jinaimachi is the Kosho-ji Temple Betsuin, designated as an Important Cultural Property. The current main hall was rebuilt in 1638 and remains the oldest Jodo Shinshu main hall in Osaka Prefecture.

The bell tower is located in the southeast corner of the temple grounds. The temple bell can be rung by visitors on New Year’s Eve.

 

Every year on New Year’s Eve, I go to the temple to ring the temple bell. You can only climb the bell tower on New Year’s Eve! Part of Jinaimachi, centering on the Kosho-ji Betsuin, was used as a filming location for the movie Baragaki Unbroken Samurai, which was released in 2021.

Koshoji Betsu-in Temple

Address: 13-18 Tondabayashi-cho, Tondabayashi-shi, Osaka

Google map

Hours of worship: 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. (available dates are listed on the official Facebook page)
Phone number: (+81) 721-23-3555
Official website
Official Facebook

Relaxing lunch in spacious restaurant Sakura Shokudo

After a long walk, we were pretty hungry. We decided to have lunch at Sakura Shokudo, located a little west of Teshigoto to Zakka 23-Banchi.

Sakura Shokudo is a renovated kimono shop. The owner, Mr. Matsubara, says, “I just did a little makeover on the original building.” But in fact, it’s a wonderfully relaxing space where you can while away the hours. The cherry-colored chairs are also very cute!

Starting with the popular beef and egg over rice, everything on the menu is made with the finest Saga beef. The aroma of delicious soy sauce and broth will whet your appetite.

Ms. Kamei was very satisfied with the tenderness of the meat and the slightly sweetened egg paired with it! Sakura Shokudo is the only restaurant in Jinaimachi open for breakfast, so we recommend starting your stroll here.
(Breakfast is available only on Sundays.)

I always feel healed by the warm food and space created by the owner, who wears a beautiful kimono. My work “Shamisen Andon” is displayed in the restaurant! Please take a look at it while you wait for your food.

Sakura Shokudo

Address: 15-9 Tondabayashi-cho, Tondabayashi City

Google map

Hours:
Breakfast … Sun. 8:30 a.m.-10:30 a.m.
Lunch … Tue-Sun. 11:00 a.m.-1:30 p.m.
Dinner … Reservations required (5 or more days in advance)
Closed: Monday and irregular holidays (varies by month)
Language: only Japanese
Phone number: (+81) 80-9746-4003
Instagram

Going a step further—return to the the Meiji era at the former Tanaka family residence

Once our stomachs were full, we continued our stroll through Jinaimachi. It had rained. “Sure, it’s nice to walk under a bright blue sky. But I also love the atmosphere of these streets when the rain has darkened and intensified the color of the wood grain,” says Ms. Kamei. The townscape, which changes with the weather and the seasons, is another one of Jinaimachi’s many charms.

In Jinaimachi, there are old houses and information centers to visit, most of which remain unchanged since their construction. This is the former Sugiyama family residence, which was used for the filming of the NHK television series Come Come Everybody.

Another old house that can be visited is the former Tanaka family residence. Built in 1892, this old house has been renovated and is open to the public. Many visitors are attracted by the tasteful design; it’s even used for pre-wedding photo shoots.

We had never seen a kaidan-tansu (a chest of drawers that double as a staircase) so up close before! It was a great opportunity to see such well-preserved furniture , and we got a sense for how people lived in those days. The quiet atmosphere unique to Japanese houses is also calming.

You can take a break by looking at the garden on the porch. Many people come to Jinaimachi for cosplay photo shoots, and the former Tanaka family residence is one of the recommended spots.

 

The tea room, staircase chests, and other features of old life are still here. You can feel as if you have time-traveled back to the Meiji era. The museum is close to Tondabayashi Station and is free to visit, so be sure to stop by.

Old Tanaka Residence

Address: 7-2 Honmachi, Tondabayashi City

Google map

Business hours: 10:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.
Closed: Monday (or the following day in case of holiday), year-end and New Year holidays
Tel: (+81) 721-25-1000 (Tondabayashi City Board of Education, Cultural Properties Division)

Tomari-ya, a women-only guesthouse where you can feel at home

Check into today’s inn to rest your feet after much walking. Let’s relax a little before dinner.

The only inn in Jinaimachi, Gofujin no Yado Tomari-ya is a women-only inn (18 years or older). The building has been carefully maintained to preserve the atmosphere of a 100-year-old Japanese house. The guesthouse aims to provide a temporary home for travelers and a relaxing space for guests.

It is available only for women and hosts up to 5 people per day, making it an ideal inn for women making their “solo travel” debut. The owner, Ms. Tomarino, has experience abroad and speaks general English, so she is able to communicate with travelers from overseas. During your stay, meals can also be prepared for an additional charge. Starting with the main dish, okonomiyaki, you can enjoy homemade meal, using an abundance of local ingredients from Minamikawachi.

As friends who opened businesses in Jinaimachi at the same time, Mr. Tomarino and I are very good friends! The cozy atmosphere of Tomariya always makes me stay a little longer.

Female-Only Guesthouse Tomari-ya

Address: 12-3 Tondabayashi-cho, Tondabayashi City

Google map

Check-in: after 4:00 p.m.
Check-out time: 10:00 a.m.
Phone number: (+81) 721-24-8881
Official website

A toast to everyone at the end of the trip! Beer Hall Banri no Haru

After a day of walking and enjoying Jinaimachi to the fullest, we will end our trip at Banri no Haru Beer Hall. Why not make a toast with Tondabayashi craft beer born right here in Jinaimachi?

The restaurant, which is a former sake brewery, has the high ceilings spaciousness of a Western beer hall, despite being a Japanese-style house.

Up to 10 kinds of Tondabayashi craft beers are on the menu. “If you are not sure which one to drink, feel free to ask the staff,” says CEO Mr. Ishida. They will explain and select beers according to customers’ tastes, so even if you are not accustomed to drinking craft beer you can feel at ease. The food also uses plenty of Minamikawachi ingredients. In particular, and the trout from Chihayaakasaka Village is a must-try.

The beer served today was Fumoto Pale Ale made with hops grown in Chihayaakasaka Village. Ms. Kamei gulped it down, praising the ale as very fruity and easy to drink.

The beer hall also has a brewery. According to Mr. Minami, the brewery manager, “Everyone visits the brewery. It’s not uncommon to find them staring at the glass as if they were stuck to it. When you visit the store, we recommend taking a brewery tour, too.”

I have been frequenting this restaurant since it first opened. Just when I think I’ve conquered all the craft beers, before I know it, they make a new one… I alway find myself saying, “I’ve got to go drink this one!”

Banri no Haru Beer Hall

Address: 21-22 Tondabayashi-cho, Tondabayashi City

Google map

Business hours: Weekdays 11:30 a.m.-2:00 p.m. (Lo1:30 p.m.), 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m. (food L.O.9:30 p.m., drink L.O.10:00 p.m.); Weekends and holidays 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. (food L.O.9:30 p.m., drink L.O.10:00 p.m.) *Closes at 10:00 p.m. (L.O.9:30 p.m.) in winter
Closed: Tuesday
Phone number: (+81) 721-24-0009
Official website

A must-see for history and architecture lovers! Don’t miss these unusual roof tiles and buildings!

Jinaimachi has much more to offer! In addition to the unique stores, take a look at the buildings around town. There may be something valuable that you can only see here, unique to this designated Important Traditional Architectures Preservation District!

A three-story storehouse still standing on an old house. Three-story warehouses are rare and valuable in Japan.

A roof vent, for releasing smoke from a traditional charcoal furnace. You can find it on several buildings if you look closely.

Koi copper plates on the roof. You can find them on only two roofs in Jinaimachi. Can you find them?

 

Tondabayashi City’s Jinaimachi area is a town where traditional homes and merchant houses still remain. Scenery from hundreds of years ago mingles with everyday life here, creating a charming, refined atmosphere distinct from that of Kyoto or Nara. We hope you will visit the area to enjoy the rich, evocative landscape that remains in Osaka.

credit

Text

Minako Onishi

Photo

Ryohei Koga

Edit

Takaaki Ito

Information presented here is current as of 2024. Please check the websites of the individual shops and facilities for up-to-date information on business hours.