Both popular music and enka ballads weave together the joys and sorrows of life, offering a balm for weary souls. What’s Your OSAKAMANIA? delves into the charms of Osaka by featuring locals who have something they’re really passionate about. This time, our guide Taka Takaaki, a performer of enka and popular music and the lead vocalist of the band Akainu, takes us around to his favorite snack bars. 

It is said that there are more than 100,000 snack bars in Japan, and Osaka ranks third following Tokyo and Hokkaido in total number of establishments. From bustling downtown areas to quiet alleyways, a variety of bars spiritedly entertain their patrons as day turns to night. 

We focused our explorations in relatively accessible neighborhoods, visiting six bars in Umeda, Juso, Senba, Shinsaibashi, and Namba.

01. Arigassama

Outstanding sake from Amami Oshima and the coziness of home

Hey there, everybody. I’m Taka Takaaki, a singer with Akainu, “the wholesale dealers of entertainment,” as we call ourselves. 

With the spread of the internet and smartphones, the world these days has become a pretty convenient place. I benefit daily from these conveniences just like everybody else. But when everything can be done through a screen, I find myself wanting to meet people face to face, to chat, have a drink. That’s when I head out into the city in search of a snack bar…

Oh, maybe I should explain. In Japan, a “snack,” or snack bar, is a bar run by a host or hostess, called a “master” or “mama,” respectively. Here, you can sing karaoke while you drink, snack, and chat til late with the friendly, knowledgeable mama or master. Regulars often use the “bottle keep” service, where their favorite bottle of liquor is kept for them at the bar!

My first stop is a place southeast of the Umeda area near Ohatsu Tenjin called Arigassama. In business for 20 years as of 2024, the bar is run by Mama Sayumi Uchida, originally from Amami Oshima. She offers her guests warm hospitality and a comfortable space that makes you feel like you’ve come back home.

Originally having no connection to the world of nightlife, after turning 50, Mama Sayumi took over a friend’s establishment and became the snack bar’s mama and owner. 

The bar welcomes a lot of customers every night, predominantly businessmen. “I simply provide a place for my guests to have fun,” says Mama Sayumi, humble despite her success. “I hope they enjoy themselves.” The house dishes, prepared fresh daily, are brimming with her sincere desire to delight her customers. 

A must-try here is the Beni Sango, a brown sugar shochu from Amami Oshima which is hard to come by in Osaka. Its sweet and mellow taste makes it dangerously easy to drink, though one should be cautious as it has a high alcohol content of 40%.

Mama Sayumi may be a bit shy when speaking to new people, but her warm, graceful personality is sure to soothe you. While you usually need an introduction from a regular to get in, mentioning that you read this article will grant you entry. Be sure to stop in at Arigassama and feel the breeze from Amami the next time you’re looking for a good time in Umeda. 

Mama Sayumi moved from Amami Oshima to Osaka half a century ago. She soothes with her gentle way of speaking.

The brown sugar shochu Beni Sango, sourced from Mama Sayumi’s hometown of Amami Oshima. “I want to give back to my hometown,” she says, revealing her deep love for the place she grew up.

Drinks are accompanied by housemade bar snacks that Mama skillfully prepares. The menu changes daily.

In the bar visitors will find a guitar and an Okinawan three-stringed sanshin that they’re welcome to pick up and play.

Mama Sayumi’s homemade sata andagi (fried dough) are made with black sugar from Amami. She gifted some to Taka during his visit.

 

During our interview, we were served dishes like mozuku seaweed pickled in homemade plum vinegar and soybeans from Shodoshima in soy sauce. Each was incredibly delicious, and they really made the drinks go down smoothly!

Arigassama

Address: 2-5-22 Sonezaki, Kita-ku, Osaka, Nippo Patio Sonezaki 3F

Google map

Business hours: 6:00 p.m. – 12:00 a.m.
Closed: Sundays and public holidays
Phone Number: (+81) 6-6361-8878
Price: 5,000yen for all-you-can-drink + all-you-can-sing, bottle keep 4,000yen

02. Pico Pico Nord

A longstanding spot imbued with love for music, plus musical accompaniment from a Juso legend

I take a Hankyu train and get off at Juso. As I make my way to the bar, my path leads me to the glowing neon lights of the entertainment district.

I arrive at my second destination, Pico Pico Nord. Back when the live music venue Fandango—where I still perform—was located in Juso, I passed by this place countless times. I never knew it was a snack bar. It’s a shock to realize it now.

The bar’s owner, Michio Takeda, is an astonishing 83 years old! Inspired by his older brother, he realized his love for music in middle school and taught himself to play several instruments. In the 1960s, he made a career of playing in bands around Hawaii. He opened Pico Pico Nord at the age of 30 and has witnessed Juso change through the years, making him something of a walking encyclopedia of the neighborhood. 

What’s so special about Mr. Takeda’s establishment is that patrons can sing karaoke with live musical accompaniment. The bar is equipped with musical instruments like an upright piano, drums, and a ukelele, and Mr. Takeda plays along while guests sing. I seized the opportunity to sing “Anata wo Kudokitai” (“I Want to Woo You”) by Yutaka Akibawa and the Alona Nights, one of my favorite songs.

Mr. Takeda generates a powerful groove on the drums, and singing along gives you the thrill of performing live on stage. It feels truly great, and the drinks keep on coming.

Curious to hear Mr. Takeda sing, I request a song from his Hawaiian days. When he sings, everyone in the bar is amazed by the youthfulness of his voice. He accompanies himself on the piano, performing with a contagious energy that belies his age.

The basic fee is 4,400yen for all-you-can-drink plus 200yen per karaoke song, but patrons can also negotiate depending on their budget. Besides pre-packaged treats, the bar also offers miso soup and bar snacks.

A key figure in the community, Mr. Takeda has been watching over Juso for many years. Until recently, he served as president of the neighborhood association.

Mr. Takeda in his younger days, about 60 years ago. So handsome!

A drum performance to accompany Taka’s singing. His rhythms give energy to the vocals.

“Even though I’m 83, singing here makes me feel like I’m 38 again,” says Mr. Takeda. His ukelele skills are impressive too!

 

The bar’s curious name was originally just Nord (meaning “north” in several Scandinavian languages). It was inspired by Mr. Takeda’s former boss, Mr. Kitano (“Mr. North”), during his time as a salaried employee. Pico Pico was added at the suggestion of a former part-time staff member who wanted to give the name a little extra charm.

Pico Pico Nord

Address: 1-14-20 Juso-Hommachi, Yodogawa-ku, Osaka

Google map

Business hours: 7:00 p.m. – 12:00 a.m.
Closed: Sundays
Phone Number: (+81) 6-6309-3364
Price: 4,400yen for all-you-can-drink, 200yen per karaoke song (negotiable based on budget), bottle keep starting from 3,000yen

03. Yosuca

A secret hideaway emerges every evening in Senba

I move from north to south, arriving in Minami-Senba where my next bar is located. Lured by the neon lights of Senba Alley shining through an opening off the street, I venture down a narrow alleyway. I gradually feel cut off from the outside world as I walk toward the building’s entrance in the dim light. There’s an exciting feeling that I am crossing into another universe. 

Situated at the top of a red carpeted staircase, snack bar Yosuca is furnished with a counter and spacious lounge seating, a truly fitting atmosphere for an adult’s hideaway.

Yosuca is a sister bar to the popular snack bars Sekumeto II in Tokyo’s Shibuya and Gion Sekumeto in Kyoto’s Gion. This membership-based bar was opened two years ago by Ai Takahashi, the mama of “Gion Sekumeto.”.

While the place looks upscale, the pricing is quite casual, with a cover charge of 1,000yen and drinks starting from 700yen. Thirsty, I indulged in a Kinmiya vodka sour and found it so delightful that I couldn’t help but order another.

The bar reflects Mama Ai’s aesthetic sense. The interior is outfitted entirely in the same red as the staircase and features a counter decorated with washi paper crafted by the washi artisan Wataru Hatano. Displayed above the lounge seating is a collection of prints from Osaka’s ukiyo-e specialty store Nishitenma Takei.

The clientele is characterized by its diversity, comprising a myriad of age groups and occupations, from seasoned snackers to apparel shop staff, hairdressers, and creators. It’s the perfect spot for those new to snack bars who enjoy meeting people from different backgrounds. Since it operates on a membership basis, an introduction from a trusted patron is required to visit.

The day of our visit was Mama Ai’s weekly kimono day. Paired with her traditional hairstyle, her dignified aura makes a striking impression.

Possibly an effect of the stylish space, even the vodka sours made by Mama Ai exude an air of luxury.

The chic lounge seating looks like something from a film scene.

An ukiyo-e print of a water vendor, selected for its association with the world of nightlife.

 

On Mama Ai’s Instagram account, besides information about the bar you’ll also find photos of her incredibly stylish Japanese and Western outfits. Check it out via the Yosuca (よすか) Instagram account.

Yosuca

Address: 4-10-4-10-22 Minami-Senba, Chuo-ku, Osaka, Senba Back Alley 2nd Floor

Google map

Business hours: 8:00 p.m. – Late
Closed: Irregular
Phone Number: Not Published
Price: Cover charge 1,000yen, drinks from 700yen, bottle keep from 4,000yen, all-you-can-sing Karaoke
Instagram

A one-of-a-kind lineup! New wave snack bars to check out in Minami

04. stand pipipi!

A new type of stand-and-drink karaoke where enthusiastic toasts come one after another

It’s not uncommon for people to feel uneasy about snack bars because of their often unclear pricing. If this is you, I recommend stand pipipi! for your snack bar initiation, with its bubblegum pink interior and stand-and-drink style karaoke. The straightforward pricing consists of a cover charge of 500yen, all-you-can-sing karaoke, drinks priced uniformly at 500yen each, and even unlimited snacks, making it an ideal stage for a beginner’s snack bar debut. The cheerful hospitality of owner Kaho-chan is sure to gently melt away any nervousness you might have.

The bar provides a warm welcome to first time visitors and a homey atmosphere that makes it easy to get along with other patrons. This is a great spot for those who want a lighthearted evening of singing and drinking.

Every visitor gets a spin at the wheel. The top prize buys you an evening free of charge!

Get 11 drinks for ¥5,000 with the drink ticket, akin to a coffee punch card

Even a white microphone has a sexy glow under the pink neon

Generous hospitality where the candy basket fills back up as soon as its emptied

 

Don’t let the pink neon scare you off—this place is packed night after night. What’s more, the 500yen across-the-board pricing is fantastic. A must-visit for first timers!

stand pipipi!

Address: 1-6-8 Sennichimae, Chuo-ku, Osaka, Matoba Building 3F

Google map

Business hours: 8:00 p.m. – 3:00 a.m.
Closed: Irregular
Phone Number: None
Price: Cover charge 500yen, all drinks 500yen

05. Snack Bar Paako

Get into the groove with a singing, drinking mama!

Next, allow me to introduce you to Snack Bar Paako, located in Soemon-cho, the backdrop of a number of popular songs. This bar was a popular spot in the Sakamachi area until last year, relocating following the mama’s decision to become independent. Experts in neighborhood nightlife gather here, from young people to salarymen. It’s an easy place for first-timers to fit in, and husky-voiced Mama Paako welcomes patrons with a hearty “Irasshai!”

If you’re lucky, you’ll wind up in the bar on one of the days when Paako-san sings Ayumi Hamasaki and Kumi Koda songs. She sings her heart out, with a voice that sounds just like the real deal. The bar’s prices are reasonable, and it’s also a great spot to sing some karaoke.

Paako-san’s specialties are Ayumi Hamasaki and Kumi Koda. On the best days, her passionate singing fills the bar.

As for food, there are only pre-packaged snacks, so it’s okay to bring your own.

Bookshelves lined with Paako-san’s manga collection. If you get along, she may let you borrow them.

 

Although it’s not as hard as Kitashinchi, Soemon-cho has high hurdles for beginners, so the reasonable pricing here comes as a welcome relief. With all the manga around, you’ll relax like you would at a friend’s house.

Snack Bar Paako

Address: 2-31 Soemon-cho, Chuo-ku, Osaka, 4F

Google map

Business hours: 11:00 p.m. – until morale breaks
Closed: Irregular
Phone Number: None
Price: 1,000yen, drinks from 700yen, bottle keep negotiable

06. Curry GAGA

Japan’s first? A members-only curry snack bar hidden in America-mura

The last spot I want to introduce is Curry Gaga, a members-only curry snack bar in Amerikamura. I imagine this concept might raise some eyebrows, but this is literally, as the name indicates, a bar where you can eat curry. That being said, there’s more than just curry on the menu. Offerings are on par with what you’d find at an izakaya, and everything is top notch. The popularity of the place is such that it’s a full house every day, no doubt helped by the character of owner Gaga-san. Of course, being a snack bar, there’s also karaoke!

The address of the shop is not publicly disclosed, and it operates on a strictly members-only basis. Admission is either through a friend’s introduction or by becoming acquainted with Gaga-san out and about in the city. Once you meet one of these criteria, you can step into the establishment.

The chicken in the Pakistani curry is stewed in oil until tender. It comes at ¥1,000 a plate.

Stir-fried bean sprouts reminiscent of Szechuan dan dan noodles, a popular menu item

 

A place that fills both your stomach and heart, this is truly a model snack bar. I often end up eating junk food late at night, so it’s great to have a spot with a menu that includes a variety of vegetables and fruits!

Curry GAGA

Address: Not Public
Business hours: 8:00 p.m.-3:00 a.m. (Fridays & Saturdays from 7:00 p.m.)
Closed: Monday
Phone Number: None

Want to talk, drink, sing? If you’re in need of some company, head straight to a snack bar!

I’ve shared with you six snack bars in Osaka that I think are worth a visit. Lately I’ve noticed a resurgence of interest in old-fashioned establishments like local Chinese eateries, public baths, and classic coffee shops, affirming to me once again the timeless need for face-to-face interaction. Snack bars are indispensable places to take a breather from our systematic world. I’m sure they’ll keep on providing drinks and solace to their patrons. Especially here in Osaka, a city known for its laughter and humanity, you’re sure to enjoy rich connections with others. A host of singular mamas and masters are waiting to welcome you!

credit

Text

Takaaki Ito

Photo

Nayaroman

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Nayaroman(NINGEN, inc. Editorial department)

Information presented here is current as of 2024. Please check the websites of the individual shops and facilities for up-to-date information on business hours.