Lessons from a spa lover! Enjoying the art of contrast baths, appreciating both hot and cold baths, at Osaka’s hidden gem, Sankukai Onsen.

2024.03.28

Osaka, the city with the second-highest number of public baths in Japan*, has a long-standing love affair with bathing culture. In this edition of “What’s Your OSAKAMANIA?”, Mr. Okebi (aka OKB), a hot spring enthusiast and the chairman of the Japan Contrast Bath Association, founded on February 6, 2024 (affectionately known as Bath Day in Japan), will share insights into the art of contrast bathing at Sankukai Onsen.

*Source: “Report on Hygiene Administration for 2022” by Japan’s Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare

While Osaka boasts many unique public bathhouses, known as onsen, our spotlight in this edition is on Sankukai Onsen, nestled in the town of Nose (pronounced NOH-seh) within the Toyono District of Osaka Prefecture, surrounded by nature’s abundance. This hidden bathing facility, about an hour’s drive from Osaka City, has a reputation that makes it worth the journey.

The parking lot is located behind the white bridge. Stroll along the Tajiri River for a picturesque view of the lush natural landscape.

The Sankukai Onsen was established in 1992. Upon discovering that many natural springs with therapeutic properties have been found in this area since ancient times, the owner—who also operates an acupuncture clinic—dug into the ground and founded the facility. Initially catering exclusively to patients for therapy and rehabilitation, the establishment was transformed after the 1995 Great Hanshin Earthquake, when the owner opened his doors to people without access to baths. Subsequently, facilities were upgraded to accommodate the general public.

Masayuki Okuno, the caretaker of Sankukai Onsen. He was suffering from a spinal cord issue and had a hunched back before his regular visits to the bathhouse twice a week, which helped straighten his posture. He has been a loyal patron for 17 years, and it is his 9th year as the facility’s caretaker.

The prefabricated shed in the foreground is reserved for individuals utilizing Sankukai Onsen for therapeutic purposes and is unavailable to the general public.

Even today, visitors flock to the baths for therapeutic purposes, but there’s also a legion of bath enthusiasts captivated by the spring’s quality. Among them is OKB, who’s been a regular for eight years and counting. OKB is no casual onsen-goer; in fact, he achieved an impressive feat last year by going to onsen and spas for 365 days straight, totalling over 500 visits! Today, he’ll reveal what exactly about this spring’s quality makes him shout, “It’s incredible!” He’ll also share the joy of contrast bathing, which means alternately immersing in hot and cold baths.

＼Our Guide／

OKB(Okebi)

A native of Osaka, affectionately known as Okebi, he is a hot spring enthusiast and the chairman of the Japan Contrast Bath Association. He spearheads media outlets like Full-Time Furo (Bath) Time, which shares information about contrast baths all over Japan, and the music label OkeMUSIC FACTORY, which releases music about bathing. Considering it his lifework, he champions the charm of public bathhouses and contrast baths.

Pure and Free-flowing Cold Springs with the Best Water Quality in Osaka

The art of contrast bathing, which Okebi champions, involves alternating between dipping in hot and cold water. It is believed that hot baths activate the parasympathetic nervous system while cold baths stimulate the sympathetic nervous system, ultimately restoring the balance of our autonomic nervous system. Okebi recommends a temperature of 43°C and above for hot baths and 20°C and below for cold baths. The reason he decided to put the spotlight on Sankukai Onsen this time is the remarkable quality of the cold spring water. Okebi, who has in recent years turned his attention to the water quality of not just hot springs but also cold springs, speaks highly of the cold spring found here.

Sankukai Onsen is extraordinary because its water is drawn from just 70 meters below ground. In an area like Osaka where hot springs are usually drawn from depths of over 1,000 meters, a spring this shallow is quite rare . Typically, the deeper it is, the more powerfully hot water gushes from the spring. However, the owner discovered this spring at a much shallower depth than anticipated, and he could not stop the vigorously rushing waters. As a result, Sankukai Onsen’s water source is naturally cold and flows freely into the baths.

The entirety of the public bath area with the tubs filled with water before opening for the day.

The establishment’s name comes from the owner’s belief that “hot springs are the Earth’s gift to us.” Earth is made up of mountains, the sky, and the sea (San, Ku, and Kai in Japanese, respectively), and combined, they give rise to hot springs, hence the name Sankukai Onsen.

Sankukai Onsen features a sodium bicarbonate sulfur spring. The cold spring water, featuring an unmistakable sulfur scent, is used as-is for the cold bath and heated for the hot bath. According to Okebi, “This is the only spring water in Osaka with such a strong sulfur scent. The smell usually diminishes when heated, but here, it is still present even in the hot bath, which shows the tremendous potential of this cold spring! I think it’s the best in Osaka Prefecture.”

Incredible cold spring water quality! It’s drinkable as-is, and you can even purchase a modest quantity to bring home. If you drink it right after opening, it has a strong sulfur scent. But wait a day, and the smell will fade; you can brew coffee or cook rice with it, which I highly recommend!

Okebi’s Contrast Bathing Ritual at Sankukai Onsen: Alternating hot and cold baths, ending with a lukewarm, hot, then cold bath.

Now, let’s dive into Okebi’s contrast bathing ritual at Sankukai Onsen. The compact bathing area only fits up to six bathers at a time. There are three tubs, each set at different temperatures: the hot bath is around 40°C to 43°C, the lukewarm bath is roughly 32°C to 36°C, and the cold water bath is approximately 18°C.

Eager regulars came way ahead of the bathhouse’s opening. As the bath area is limited, please share the space considerately! The cold water bath is on the far right.

The washing area has space for two persons. Close the bath faucet to get the ideal water pressure when using the shower.

Remember to pour hot water over your body before immersing in the hot bath. Once you feel the heat permeating your core, switch to the cold water bath before overheating. The recommended duration for the cold water bath is one to two minutes. Repeat the hot and cold bath sets several times, and in the final set, dip in the lukewarm bath before finishing with your last hot and cold bath. Last but not least, instead of taking a shower to end your session, rinse with the cold spring water from the hose in the cold bath. This is Okebi’s contrast bathing ritual at Sankukai Onsen!

The hot bath and lukewarm bath are only heated and contain no added water, allowing you to fully enjoy the cold spring’s benefits.

The hot bath has two faucets, one supplied with heated spring water and the other with pure cold spring water. Okebi prefers to shut the cold water faucet to enjoy a hot bath of about 43°C. If other customers are present, the proper etiquette is to ask, “Mind if I turn up the heat a bit?” before adjusting the water temperature.

The cold bathtub is a retro stainless type designed for one person. As it’s chlorine-free, you can drink the cold spring water from the tub or the hose.

The cold bath also has a faucet, so you can enjoy entering the cold spring water with a big, satisfying splash. “It may feel chilly initially, but it will gradually adapt to your skin temperature while your body slowly adjusts to it,” explains Okebi. Remember to turn off the tap completely when exiting!

The spring’s therapeutic values include treating neuralgia, joint pain, cold intolerance, skin diseases, and more.

Mr. Okuno, the caretaker, recommends first taking a 15-minute lukewarm bath followed by a 3–5 minute hot bath and a 1–2 minute cold bath. Then, repeat the cycle of 3–5 minute hot bath, 15-minute lukewarm bath, 3–5 minute hot bath, 1–2 minute cold bath, with a total bath time of about 1 hour.

Rinsing down with this cold water hose at the end of the bath session is the Okebi way.

He recommends spending about one hour in the bathing area. This ensures that your body becomes pleasantly warm from the core, leaving you slightly dizzy but satisfied (our reporters certainly were!). When asked about the best time to wash your body, Okebi says it is nonsensical to wash yourself midway through bathing at Sankukai Onsen. According to him, it’s best to either rinse by pouring hot water over your body or wash with the shower heads at the very beginning.

This is because you risk washing away the spring minerals absorbed into your body. Especially for those seeking therapeutic benefits, not washing the body midway allows you to properly retain the benefits—restoring the balance of the autonomic nervous system with contrast bathing and “absorb” the good stuff. According to Okebi, there’s plenty of benefits to “absorb” at Sankukai Onsen, making it incredible.

From here on, Okebi went off on a tangent, discussing some advanced stuff like enjoying “exfoliating” after “absorbing.” “Exfoliating is a high-level technique performed by those who know how best to enjoy contrast bathing and understand the significance of cold baths and saunas. It makes the body feel lighter.,” he explained.

You may be wondering, “What does that even mean?” When asked to elaborate, he explained that while mineral springs are beneficial, absorbing too many minerals through your pores can make you feel dizzy. When that happens, Okebi recommends stopping by another public bath on the way home, sweating it out in a sauna, or enjoying a contrast bath with an ice-cold bath (groundwater or soft water is best!) and a hot bath. This way, the excess minerals are appropriately “exfoliated,” making the body feel lighter. Truly an advanced technique.

While that was perhaps a little too advanced for general readers, the fact that the trip to Sankukai Onsen evoked such passion from Okebi shows how amazing the cold water spring is. Cherished for its therapeutic effects and hidden within the verdant natural landscape of Nose, Sankukai Onsen is an establishment you don’t want to miss. We’re convinced that once you’ve soaked in it, you’ll want to return again and again, yearning for the exquisite hot and cold baths!

Both the cold and hot water being top-notch—you could get carried away with contrast bathing and be left totally dazed. Still, I’d like everyone to try this incredible experience. For example, even if you slept in on a Sunday and felt like, “Oh no, the day’s almost over,” don’t worry! Just bring your family to Sankukai Onsen, and it’ll be a day well spent! This short trip will not only rejuvenate your body but also brighten up your day. Plus, Okuno’s really entertaining despite his quirky character , haha.

Sankukai Onsen

Address: 801 Shimo-tajiri, Nose-cho, Toyono-gun, Osaka

Google map

Business hours: April to September / Weekdays 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., Saturdays 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., Sundays and National Holidays 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.
October to March / Weekdays 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Saturdays 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., Sundays and National Holidays 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
National Holidays coinciding with Thursdays and Fridays / 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Closed: every Thursday and Friday
Language: only Japanese
Phone Number: (+81) 90-7887-0995
Fees: ¥800 for adults, ¥500 for children (12 and under), and ¥300 for infants (3 and under)

Always Hungry After a Bath! After bathing at Sankukai Onsen, fill up with a delectable bowl of rice with egg.

After unwinding at Sankukai Onsen, head to Tamagoya Tansyuji to indulge in Okebi-san’s highly recommended tamago kake gohan (aka TKG, a bowl of rice mixed with raw egg). This dish is the perfect way to recharge energy and recover from the slight daze.

Tansyuji’s TKG uses high-folate eggs delivered daily from a local poultry farm. Laid by chickens raised with thorough attention to their feed, the eggs are rich in folate, a vital vitamin for the human body, making them intensely flavorful. The other element of the dish is locally grown Kinuhikari rice, which offers a sweet and rich taste.

The TKG set that includes a miso soup costs ¥500 (tax included) while an ala-carte TKG bowl is ¥450 (tax included). You can choose from three types of soy sauce, which are prepared for you at the table.

Neither too bland nor greasy, you can easily devour it in one go. You can get one free rice refill and use as many eggs as you like!

Okebi savored the TKG on its own for his first serving, added chopped seaweed prepared on the table for the second bowl, and added another egg halfway through his second bowl. They only serve TKG on Saturdays, Sundays, and national holidays from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. while their stock of rice lasts!

The store also serves as a direct sales point for high-folate eggs, local vegetables, Nose’s local sake, rice, and more. Okebi says he purchases the eggs every time, and he got plenty on this day, too!

Since bathing on a full stomach can be uncomfortable, I try not to eat much before going to a bathhouse. So, I always end up feeling really hungry! The TKG here is the perfect meal after a good bath—light, satisfying, and, above all, delicious! I’ve brought many spa enthusiasts here, and everyone likes it.

Tamagoya Tansyuji

Address: 1374 Yamabe, Nose-cho, Toyono-gun, Osaka

Google map

Business hours: 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. (TKG is available only on Saturdays, Sundays, and National Holidays from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., while the stock of rice lasts.)
Closed: every Wednesday
Phone Number: (+81) 72-734-4441
Website

Don’t Miss These Either! Okebi’s Top Picks for Public Baths

1. Suehiro Onsen

Osaka’s Pride: The Contrast Bathing Sanctuary

This celebrated hot spring facility upholds the practice of the Nishi Shiki contrast bath, a part of the Nishi Health System invented by Showa-era medical researcher Katsuzo Nishi! They offer a flawless contrast bath experience with a cold bath supplied by pure overflowing groundwater and a hot bath provided by a mix of groundwater and tap water, allowing for thorough temperature control. This is our first stop when I visit bathhouses in Osaka with my spa-loving friends. Mr. Inoue, the bathhouse owner, also holds the prestigious position of honorary chairman at the Japan Contrast Bath Association!

Suehiro Onsen

Address: 2-1-19 Setoguchi, Hirano-ku, Osaka

Google map

Business hours: 2:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m.
Closed: every Friday
Language: only Japanese
Phone Number: (+81) 6-6703-5356
Website Instagram

2. Yao Grand Hotel

AKA the Contrast Wonderland

When asked, “Where’s the best place for contrast bathing?” I recommend this bathhouse with unwavering confidence. With a 110 cm deep cold bath and a 46°C hot spring side by side, you can easily enjoy contrast bathing with immediate effects. Plus, the spacious tubs mean you can do it at your own pace without worrying about other customers!

Yao Grand Hotel

Address: 5-101 Yaogikita, Yao-shi, Osaka

Google map

Business hours: 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 a.m. (on the next day)
Regular Holiday: None
Language: only Japanese
Phone Number: (+81) 72-994-3591
Attention: Tattoo NG
Website X

3. Fudo Hot Spring

A Rare Natural Hot Spring in the Heart of Osaka City

Despite being in a residential area, this public bathhouse offers natural hot spring water drawn from 1,000 meters below, making it one of the best public baths in Osaka. With numerous baths, including a 19°C cold bath, even beginners can enjoy contrast baths thoroughly! It’s one of those public baths you’ll want to visit regularly, and with the fee including sauna access, it leaves nothing to be desired.

Fudo Hot Spring

Address: 13-14 Tennoden, Joto-ku, Osaka

Google map

Business hours: 10:00 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Regular Holiday: None
Phone Number: (+81) 6-6969-5986
Website

Experience Excellent Hot Springs & Cold Baths in Osaka!

In this edition of OSAKA Mania Exploration, we learned the ins and outs of contrast bathing from Okebi at Sankukai Onsen, a hidden gem and a legendary bathhouse in Osaka. Feeling the urge to visit a bathhouse and try contrast bathing?

Well, there’s no time like the present. Dive in while the water is hot! Start with Sankukai Onsen! And do explore the other public baths recommended by Okebi and more. Osaka has many charming public bathhouses, allowing you to immerse in this unique Japanese culture and, most importantly, develop a love for hot and cold baths!

To wrap up, here’s a word from Okebi: “No matter which public bathhouse you visit, always remember to seek peak comfort. Since everyone has their own way of finding comfort, start by purely enjoying public baths. Lastly, I extend my heartfelt thanks in the spirit of warmth and coolness!

credit

Text: Akihiro Maede

Edit: Akihiro Maede

Photo: Yuto Yamamoto

Direction: NINGEN, inc. Editorial department

Information presented here is current as of 2024. Please check the websites of the individual shops and facilities for up-to-date information on business hours.

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