About Osaka

Our oceans are in danger right now. We can choose to do nothing, but
I believe that a good chef is someone who tries to protect the source of life.

Olivier Laurent has been saying for over 20 years that "sustainability" is an issue in the culinary world. He began working on this issue in 2010 at Relais & Châteaux, where he currently serves as vice president. As a result, Atlantic tuna stocks have recovered, and Laurent's beliefs are beginning to make a difference.

The ocean covers 70% of the Earth's surface. Long ago, life was born from these oceans. The ocean is the source of life for all people. It is also a huge food storehouse. This is extremely important to us chefs.

I live in a small port town called Cancale in Brittany, France. The sea here has large tidal ranges, a rich variety of plankton unmatched in Europe, and a treasure trove of fish. Plants that cannot grow unless immersed in seawater for several hours a day also thrive here. In other words, you could say that this place is protected by the sea, the phases of the moon, and the tides. Just under an hour's drive west is the port town of Saint-Malo, home to a maritime people. Tracing their path leads to the Middle East, India, Asia, and the New World. The stories of the people who made their living from the sea have become the stories of the land and have influenced its cuisine.

Not only do we strive for deliciousness, but we also strive for ethical

The ocean, which is the most important thing to humanity, is currently facing a crisis. Incidentally, only 10% of the world's fishing resources are sustainable. Reports suggest that 90% of the large fish living in the world's oceans have already been caught. Fish are on the verge of disappearing from the world's oceans and from our dinner tables. And yet, a whopping 40% of the fish caught as bycatch in large-scale fishing is discarded without ever being eaten. What we need to pay attention to here is the fact that it is not small fishing boats, but rather large-scale fishing that is accelerating the crisis.

In Europe, 60% of all fish caught is consumed in restaurants. This places a heavy responsibility on chefs. Of course, it's possible to continue doing your job without doing anything or thinking about anything. Rather than banning fishing, I think we need to consider what chefs around the world can do to protect local marine resources, for example by raising awareness in their own regions. To do this, it's important to first understand the extent of the threat each fish faces. Second, fishing methods. What methods can be used without damaging the ecosystem? Third, determining the size of fish that are acceptable for capture. Fourth, seasonality. Different fish spawn at different times. Fishing before spawning reduces their numbers. To break this vicious cycle, I believe chefs of the future should be bon chefs (good chefs), not grand chefs. What's needed is not just delicious food, but also ethical cuisine. To achieve this, we need to protect biodiversity while providing the joy and pleasure of eating. And we need to protect the health of people and the planet. I hope that more and more such "bon chefs" will be born in Japan, a country that has always lived with respect for nature.

"Fairies live in Brittany. Here you can taste the poetry brought about by the wind and temperature of the day. I think Cancale is that kind of place," says Laurent.