Arima Onsen
The hot springs of Arima Onsen are some of the oldest and most famous in all of Japan. Dozens of onsen hotels and baths call this mountainside town home, offering a scenic retreat within the Kobe City limits.
Arima is Ancient History
Arima Onsen is part of a rare upper-echelon of Japanese hot springs. Not only are its resorts and baths well-regarded in modern times, it’s also one of just three “Ancient Hot Springs”— this makes it the oldest in all of Japan, alongside Dogo Onsen (Ehime Prefecture) and Shirahama Onsen (Wakayama Prefecture). All these onsen towns were mentioned in Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan), the second-oldest known book of Japanese history, which dates back to 700 AD. In the over 1,000 years that people having been bathing in the natural spring waters of Arima, the town has hosted multiple emperors.
Today, the hot springs are easily accessed through the town’s many onsen hotels. During my visit, I stayed at the Diamond Arima Onsen Society resort. The Japanese-style tatami room had plenty of space and included an outdoor patio to look out on the town and surrounding foliage.
The B1 level of the three-story hotel has onsen facilities available for use exclusively by hotel guests. While the baths are not large, they are high quality and can offer a well-needed dose of relaxation after a few days of sightseeing. Decompress in the foot bath, jacuzzi bath and traditional wooden-framed bath, or step outside to enjoy the open-air bath. Surrounded by a small garden and a bamboo fence, the outside section plays on the contrast between the hot stone-floor bath and the cold crisp mountain air. It’s a pleasant way to spend an evening.
Towels and toiletries are provided in your hotel room, but unlike many similar resorts the hotel does not provide yukata (a Japanese summer garment) to wear to the onsen.
A Walk Through Town
While Arima Onsen is a small town, it is still worth venturing out to experience its quiet mountain ambiance and to see its select attractions. Try a walk to the town center. A tribute to the hot springs that made Arima famous, in the place of a traditional square, the town center is a river of hot spring water. The elaborate stone carvings in the channel create a series of mini waterfalls and currents that run under the red-lacquer Taiko Bridge.
There are small cafes, gift shops and izakaya (Japanese gastropubs) that surround Arima River square.
The most famous stop in town, however, is certainly Kin-no-Yu, which literally means golden bath. Rich in iron deposits, the water at this public onsen is renowned for its deep and cloudy golden-brown water. The bathhouse has been in operation since the Edo period and is a must-see on any visit to Arima. The nearby Gin-no-Yu (silver bath) is a close second with its radium and carbonate heavy “silver water.” The pair are accessible with a joint admission ticket for 850 yen. While the facilities are far from glamorous, there is something to be said for the novelty of the experience and the supposed health benefits of these mineral-rich baths.
Access
Located on the north side of Mt. Rokko, today the town is easily accessible by public transportation. Kobe City subway and train lines bypass the mountain and will get you directly to Arima Onsen Station. The longer scenic route requires summiting the Kobe City side of Mt. Rokko via cable car, before descending to Arima Onsen via ropeway.
Both transportation options are covered by the Hanshin Line’s comprehensive Arima Rokko Day Pass. The pass covers all Hanshin Line train transportation between Osaka, Kobe, Arima Onsen and Mt. Rokko. It also covers the Mt. Rokko cable car, ropeway, and bus systems. The pass is available for purchase at Hanshin Lines ticket offices, including the one at Kobe Sannomiya Station. Each day pass costs 2,460 yen.
ANDREW DECK
I’m an American journalist and editor based in Tokyo. After nearly 20 years living in Japan, I’m still discovering new and exciting places in Japan outside of Tokyo and off the beaten path, such as the ancient “Kumano Kodo" pilgrimage trails and the charming seaside fishing village, Kada.