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  • From his birthplace to the settings of his novels: A tour of places associated with Yasunari Kawabata

Itineraries

From his birthplace to the settings of his novels: A tour of places associated with Yasunari Kawabata

"When we emerged from the tunnel, we found ourselves in a snowy country." This is the well-known opening line of "Snow Country," and Kawabata Yasunari is a writer known for his many masterpieces, including "The Diary of a 16-Year-Old," "The Dancer of Izu," "The Sound of the Mountains," "The Ancient Capital," and "Soribashi Bridge." The first Japanese to win the Nobel Prize in Literature, Kawabata was born in Osaka, but lost both his parents at a young age. He was taken in by his grandparents and spent his impressionable years in Ibaraki, until he graduated from a former junior high school. How did the "world's Kawabata" live here in Osaka? Starting from his birthplace, this tour visits spots associated with him. Discover his surprising true nature and experience the beauty of Japan that he loved.

  1. START

    Minamimorimachi Station on the OSAKA METRO Tanimachi Line

  2. 5minutes on foot
    The birthplace of Kawabata Yasunari

    First, we head to Osaka Tenmangu Shrine, affectionately known as "Tenjin-san of Tenma." Kawabata Yasunari was born on June 14, 1899, just east of the shrine's main gate, where the Aioi-ro restaurant now stands. A stone monument quietly stands in front of the gate, reading "Birthplace of Kawabata Yasunari." Yasunari's father, Eikichi, ran a private practice in Tenma, Kita Ward, Osaka, then part of Konohana-cho, Kita Ward, Osaka City. He contracted pulmonary tuberculosis and passed away before Yasunari was even a year old. They moved to a nearby home near his mother, Gen's, in what is now Higashiyodogawa Ward, but she also passed away in January 1901. Having lost both parents at a young age, Yasunari was taken in by his grandparents the following year and moved to what is now Shukukusho, Ibaraki City, then Toyokawa Village, Mishima County, Osaka Prefecture. From here, we'll take the Hankyu Railway to Ibaraki.

    1 minute walk from Ibarakishi Station on the Hankyu Railway
  3. Higashi Honganji Ibaraki Betsuin

    Ibaraki City is about 20 minutes from Hankyu Railway's Osaka-Umeda Station. About 100 years ago, Yasunari moved here with his grandparents from Osaka. Despite his frail health, he grew up loved by his grandparents. He enrolled in Toyokawa Elementary School (now Toyokawa Elementary School) in April 1906, achieving excellent grades. According to records, he received A marks in all grades in first grade and A marks in Japanese language in every grade except second grade. In 1912, he enrolled in Osaka Prefectural Ibaraki Junior High School (now Osaka Prefectural Ibaraki High School), where he witnessed the death of his respected teacher, Kurasaki Jinichiro, in his fifth grade. Yasunari and his fellow fifth-grade students held the teacher's funeral at Ibaraki Betsuin, located about a one-minute walk from Ibaraki Station. Yasunari's account of the funeral was published in the magazine "Danran" under the title "Carrying My Teacher's Coffin on My Shoulders." This place, where his talent first began to blossom, now houses a kindergarten, bustling with the sounds of children. The intricate wood carvings on the main hall's roof are so beautiful, I couldn't help but snap photos one after the other. Ibaraki City is about 20 minutes by Hankyu train from Umeda, Osaka. About 100 years ago, Yasunari moved here with his grandparents from Osaka. Despite his frail health, he grew up loved by his grandparents. He enrolled in Toyokawa Elementary School (now Toyokawa Elementary School) in April 1906, achieving excellent grades. According to records, he received A marks in all his first-grade classes, and A marks in Japanese language in every grade except for his second-grade class. In 1912, he enrolled in Osaka Prefectural Ibaraki Junior High School (now Osaka Prefectural Ibaraki High School), but witnessed the death of his respected teacher, Kurasaki Jinichiro, in his fifth-grade year. The funeral for their teacher was held here at Ibaraki Betsuin, about a one-minute walk from Ibaraki Station, with Yasunari and all the other fifth-grade students. Yasunari wrote about the funeral, which was published in the magazine "Danran" under the title "Carrying My Teacher's Coffin on My Shoulders." This place, where a glimpse of his talent began to blossom, now houses a kindergarten, and is bustling with the sounds of children. The intricate wood carvings on the roof of the main hall were so beautiful that I couldn't help but take pictures one after the other.

    View the spot
    1minute on foot
  4. Toraya Seido Bookstore

    This bookstore, located just a minute's walk from Ibaraki Betsuin Temple and on the left side of the entrance to Ibaraki Shinsaibashi Shopping Street, was founded in 1895. During the Taisho era, middle school students like Kawabata Yasunari and Oya Soichi also stopped by. Yasunari was said to have been a bookworm despite struggling to pay for books. The original two-story wooden building that opened remained until just three years ago, but now the first floor is a 99 yen shop and the second floor is the bookstore's office. The aged signboard, a reminder of the time, has been preserved, so be sure to take a look.

    5minutes on foot
  5. Horihiro Kyokudo

    A six- or seven-minute walk from Toraya Bookstore toward Ibaraki Prefectural High School brings you to a four-story white building facing the main street, also a bookstore. It's said that young Kawabata would often buy the books he wanted here and immerse himself in them. The old sign from that time remains preserved next to the entrance. This neighborhood is frequented by fans of Kawabata's literature, and there are many other stores nearby, including Okamura Clothing Store, Horiuchi Tobacco Store, and Kishida Shindo, which are no longer in business but still boast nostalgic signs. Fortunately, the area escaped air raids during the war, and is dotted with many old houses. Looking around, cross the intersection directly in front of Horihiro Asahido, and walk two or three minutes to arrive at Ibaraki Prefectural High School.

    3 minutes by car
  6. Kawabata Yasunari Literary Monument

    We arrive at Ibaraki Prefectural High School, where the literary monument is located. Just inside the main entrance, there is a four-character phrase "以文会友" (to make friends through literature). "To make friends through literature" is a phrase from the Analects of Confucius, which means "to make friends through learning." When Yasunari Kawabata, a graduate of the school in 1917, won the Nobel Prize in Literature, the school requested that he write a message for the monument, which was then completed. Perhaps thanks to the lessons of this great predecessor, Ibaraki Prefectural High School is now one of the leading academic schools in the prefecture.

    View the spot
    15-minute walk
  7. Kawabata Yasunari Literature Museum

    From Ibaraki Prefectural High School, it's another 15-minute walk. Heading towards the main street where Toraya Bookstore is located, and continuing towards Kawabata-dori, you'll arrive at the Kawabata Yasunari Literary Museum. In 1968, Ibaraki City awarded Kawabata Yasunari, the first Japanese to win the Nobel Prize in Literature, the title of "Ibaraki City Honorary Citizen," and opened the Kawabata Yasunari Literary Museum. The museum displays approximately 400 items, including Kawabata Yasunari's portrait, his books, personal belongings, letters, manuscripts, and first editions. There's also a unique corner where electronic panels showcase places associated with him and a model of the house he lived in with his grandparents. You can also learn about the circumstances surrounding the creation of one of his most famous works, "Diary of a 16-Year-Old." In June, Yasunari's birthday month, the museum hosts a special exhibition celebrating his birthday.

    Free admission

    View the spot
    Get off at the Hankyu Bus Shukukusho stop in front of the City Hall bus stop, then walk northwest for about 5 minutes
  8. Former site of Professor Kawabata Yasunari

    From the memorial hall, return to the City Hall bus stop and take the Hankyu bus for 20 minutes. Get off at the Shukukusho bus stop and walk about 100 meters northwest to reach the historic site. Yasunari was taken in by his grandparents when he was under three years old, and lived in this house until his grandfather passed away when he was in his third year at Osaka Prefectural Ibaraki Junior High School (now Osaka Prefectural Ibaraki High School). His niece, Tomie Kawabata, and her family currently live here. Yasunari would walk the approximately 6km from this house to junior high school every day, climbing the pine tree in the garden to read books. I can still picture the energetic young Yasunari.

    JR & Hankai Tramway: Approximately 1 hour
  9. Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine Soribashi Bridge

    Spend a day visiting places associated with Kawabata Yasunari. Finish your visit with a visit to Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine. The symbol of Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine, affectionately known as "Sumiyossan" and also known as the god of the sea, is the vermilion-lacquered Soribashi Bridge. In his novel "Soribashi Bridge," Kawabata wrote of this bridge, which spans a steeply sloping pond, "It is harder to go down than up." A stone monument with this passage remains near the bridge. The bridge's reflection on the calm water's surface is serene and beautiful, and you're sure to experience a scene of the Japanese beauty that Kawabata loved.

    View the spot
  10. GOAL!

Additional Information

Tasting spot
Yaroku is a long-established Western restaurant near Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine. Their specialty croquettes are available for takeout.
souvenir
Be sure to check out the postcards related to "Kawabata of the World." They will be useful for correspondence both domestically and internationally.
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