Once upon a time, Osaka was the sea! A journey back to ancient times on the Uemachi Plateau
Long ago, most of Osaka city was covered by sea. The Uemachi Plateau, stretching from Osaka Castle to Sumiyoshi, jutted out into the sea like a peninsula, and from its northern tip, many large and small islands could be seen floating. The Morinomiya people, the roots of Osaka, lived on the Uemachi Plateau, and various cultures were brought across the sea from mainland China and the Korean Peninsula. At the time, Naniwa-tsu, a major hub for international trade, was bustling, the magnificent Naniwa Palace was built, and the city flourished as the heart of Japan. Stories sleep quietly here and there on the Uemachi Plateau, now shrouded in greenery. Let's take a journey through ancient Osaka.
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START
Departing from JR Tamatsukuri Station
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10 minutes on footTamatsukuri Inari Shrine
Start at Tamatsukuri Station on the JR Loop Line. Walk north along Tamatsukuri-suji and turn left into a residential area. You'll find Tamatsukuri Inari Shrine just before Tamatsukuri Elementary School. "Tamatsukuri" appears repeatedly, like a tongue twister, but this area was actually the site of the ancient "Tamazukuri" (jewel-making) district. Its beautiful name, derived from the magatama (comma-shaped jewel), is a symbol of the area. Founded in the autumn of the 18th year of Emperor Suinin's reign (12 BC), Tamatsukuri Inari Shrine is said to have been where Prince Shotoku set up camp on Tamazukuri Hill and prayed for victory during his battle with Mononobe no Moriya. During the Toyotomi era, it was enshrined as the guardian deity of Osaka Castle, and at the back of the quiet grounds remains a stone torii gate dedicated by Hideyori. To the right of the torii gate is the Naniwa Tamatsukuri Museum. This unique building, reminiscent of an ancient space, displays ancient jade artifacts, raw stones and jade items mined from all over Japan, the history of jade, and the jade-making process (tours require reservations). Could it be that an ancient magatama is sleeping beneath the ground where we are standing?
View the spot3 minutes by car -
Morinomiya Ruins
It's just a 10-minute walk down the slope from Tamatsukuri Inari Shrine. Traveling back in time, we arrive at the Jomon period. The Morinomiya Ruins Exhibition Room is located on the first basement floor of Morinomiya Piloti Hall. According to research, people began living in Morinomiya around 5,000 years ago, during the middle Jomon period! Around 1974-1975, human bones were discovered during the third survey conducted in conjunction with the construction of this hall, and the bones, stone tools, and pottery of the "First Morinomiya Person" are now on display here. Morinomiya Person No. 1, who could be considered the roots of Osaka, was a woman about 148 cm tall, estimated to be in her 30s.
2minutes on foot -
Naniwa Palace Historical Park
If you walk west up the slope of Chuo-dori from Morinomiya Ruins, you'll arrive at the lush greenery of Naniwa Palace Historical Park. In 645, Emperor Kotoku moved the capital to Naniwa along with the Taika Reforms. This bustling area, home to the international port of Naniwa-tsu, saw the construction of the vast Naniwa Nagara Toyosaki Palace. Later, in 726, Emperor Shomu built a new palace to replace the Naniwa Palace that had been destroyed by fire. The foundation of the original Daigokuden hall has been restored in the north-central part of the approximately 90,000-square-meter historic park. Take a break on the stone platform. If you listen carefully, you might even hear the sounds of ancient times.
2minutes on foot -
Osaka Museum of History
Two tall buildings stand side by side diagonally across from the intersection at the northwest corner of Naniwanomiya Historical Park. The one in the foreground is the Osaka Museum of History. The 10-story building showcases Osaka from ancient times to the present day through reconstructed models, computer images, and a wealth of materials, but the highlight is the Naniwanomiya Daigokuden Hall, recreated on the 10th floor. Life-size figures of officials are lined up among rows of vermilion-lacquered columns, each 70 cm in diameter, giving a real sense of its grandeur. Guided tours of the building remains discovered during excavations are also available in the basement (six tours per day, first 40 people per tour).
View the spotAdmission is free for adults: 600 yen, high school and university students: 400 yen, junior high school students and younger, Osaka City residents aged 65 and over, and those with a disability certificate (including one caregiver).
25-minute walk15 minutes by train -
Kozugu Shrine
A five-minute walk from Exit 1 of Tanimachi 9-chome Station on the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, Takatsu Park is an oasis in the city center, filled with beautiful greenery (and with spectacular cherry blossoms in spring). The park is associated with Naniwa Takatsu Palace, which was founded by Emperor Nintoku around the 5th century, who saw smoke rising from hearths and realized the poverty of the people, and offered relief. It's also known as the setting for the classic rakugo story "Takatsu no Tomi," and every month, a lively comedy performance called "Takatsu Miyatei Kuromon Yose" is held within the grounds.
View the spot23-minute walk13 minutes by train -
SHITENNOJI
From Takatsukamiya, take the OsakaMetro again, one stop away. Shitennoji Get off at Maeyuhigaoka Station and walk along the approach for 3-4 minutes, and you will finally arrive at the final stop of your ancient journey, Shitennoji. The oldest temple in Japan was built by Prince Shotoku Taishi in 593, the first year of Emperor Suiko's reign (about 1,400 years ago). The temple complex is arranged in the "Shitennoji style," with the central gate, five-story pagoda, main hall, and lecture hall in a straight line from south to north, surrounded by a corridor. The sound of bells and sutra chanting overlap, and good men and women with sutra sticks in their hands are surrounded by the smoke of incense. The wishes of the common people, unchanged for thousands of years, are alive and well here today.
head temple of the Japanese sect ShitennojiView the spotMain temple: 300 yen for adults, 200 yen for high school and university students; Treasure Museum: 200 yen for adults, 100 yen for high school and university students; Honbo Garden: 300 yen for adults, 200 yen for high school and university students. [Combined ticket: 700 yen for adults, 400 yen for high school and university students]
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Additional Information
- Stop-in spots
- NHK Osaka Broadcasting Hall BK Plaza.
- souvenir
- We recommend Kawato, where you can see the beautiful world of dried sweets displayed in the shop window.
- remarks
- At Takatsu Shrine, the summer festival held on July 17th and 18th every year is a huge success, with children's mikoshi (portable shrines), danjiri music, a performance stage, and rows of street stalls. At Shitennoji, the main temple building is open to the public free of charge on the 21st and 22nd of each month, when the Taishi-e and Taishi-e festivals are held, and the temple grounds are lined with stalls selling everyday items and antiques.














