Discover Kansai

Take a day-trip trek along a Buddhist pilgrimage route dating back 1,200 years

With its strong tradition of pilgrimage since ancient times, Japan is criss-crossed by a network of historic trails linking sacred sites. The Nishiyama Historic Trail is a relatively unknown but delightful trail for those who want to enjoy a slice of peace and serenity in Kyoto’s western mountains while retracing the steps of earlier pilgrims. The trail which connects three sacred temples is located in Kyoto’s south-western corner near the Osaka border, and is an enjoyable day trip and easy train ride from either city. It’s a beguiling place to experience nature and the Buddhist faith away from the crowds.

Located south along the trail, Yanagidani Kannon is over 1,200 years old, first built in 806 by the same priest who founded Kyoto’s famous Kiyomizu Temple. It sits in a hilly sanctuary surrounded by forest and is a popular retreat both for pilgrims and locals alike. With its attractive wooden corridors, visitors can explore the temple precinct and surrounding gardens. In the warmer months over 5,000 hydrangeas bloom and the maples in fall are similarly stunning, particularly when viewed from inside the temple’s famous study hall. Yanagidani Kannon is home to an eleven-faced thousand-armed sitting Kannon statue and has a strong connection to Japan’s most famous monk Kukai (also known as Kobo Daishi). Kukai allegedly discovered a sacred spring in the temple grounds which is said to heal eye disease.

Of the three temples on this trail, this temple is directly connected with the original Saikoku Kannon Pilgrimage route, ranking as number 20 on the circuit. It’s a beautiful mountain-side temple with expansive grounds offering glorious views of Kyoto. It was first established in 1029 but rebuilt in the 15th century when the capital suffered extensive damage due to an extended battle across the city. It features a stately Sanmon temple gate and several noteworthy buildings housing antique Buddhist sculptures including a thousand-armed Kannon statue. It’s a popular site, particularly in spring and summer with its contemplative, meandering paths and sprawling hydrangea gardens and cherry blossoms. The temple also features an impressive 600-year-old pine tree, which has been trained to grow horizontally over 37 meters. Likened to a reclining dragon in relaxed mode, the pine has been named “Yuryu no Matsu” and is a designated national natural treasure.

Located to the east of Yoshimine Temple, Komyo-ji shares a similar pedigree. It was built in 1198 by the priest Honen (who established the Jodo sect of Buddhism) and it is believed this was where Japan’s first Buddhist sutra chant took place. Many of the current buildings were reconstructed in the 17th century, with fires again destroying the original buildings. Surrounded by woods on a hillside, Komyo-ji is a large complex with an extensive collection of Buddhist artwork and statues as well as sub-temples and rock gardens. It attracts sightseers from across Japan in fall, when the leaves of its maple trees change color and eventually drop to cover the 200m-long cobblestone path that leads to the main temple, creating a stunning carpet of red. The monks of this Buddhist community are very welcoming and are happy to offer tours of the complex too.