Beyond Osaka’s Bright Lights A Journey to Where Daily Life and Deep Spirituality Meet in Higashi Osaka’s Ishikiri Area

Ishikiri-Tsurugiya Shrine – History, Healing, and Rituals

Our journey began in earnest as we reached the entrance to Ishikiri-Tsurugiya Shrine. Known for its healing properties, particularly for those suffering from illness, the shrine draws visitors from across Japan. The name Ishikiri, meaning "cutting stone," symbolises cutting through sickness, particularly cancer and tumours, which is why so many people come here to pray for health, for themselves or loved ones.

The shrine, a site of faith and devotion for nearly 2,700 years, carries an atmosphere charged with reverence. It was clear that this wasn’t just another stop on a tourist route – the shrine held deep significance. The weight of prayers was palpable, and the quiet reverence around the grounds made the experience feel all the more meaningful.

One of the most fascinating rituals I witnessed was the hyakudomairi. Groups of worshippers circled two small stone pillars, counting their laps around the pillars using folded strings of paper available at the shrine to make sure they do not lose count. The act of walking around the stones 100 times while praying for healing felt like a tangible expression of their hopes and struggles.

Another meaningful experience was the wishing turtle ritual. Visitors purchase a small grey turtle to make a wish. They write their name and wish on special paper, tucking it into the turtle, which is then placed near a smaller shrine. It’s said that placing the turtles near the shrine or in the pond will make your wish come true. When a wish is fulfilled, visitors return to the shrine to purchase a larger, pink turtle. This pink turtle is then placed in the pond at the shrine or at its sister shrine—located atop the hill overlooking the city—as a gesture of thanks to the deity. This simple, charming ritual added to the personal connection I felt, imagining returning with a pink turtle to give thanks.

Beyond these rituals, I also noticed special stones, believed to have healing properties. Worshippers rub these stones and touch the part of their body in need of relief, adding another layer to the shrine’s healing power.

What stood out most was how deeply genuine the people were in their seeking of peace and healing. As a visitor, witnessing these rituals felt like an invitation to connect with something profound. This wasn’t just sightseeing – it was about understanding the significance of these rituals in people’s lives.

Exploring the Shopping Street: Food and Crafts

Leaving the shrine, we entered the peaceful shopping street. While it was quieter on the weekday we visited, this gave us the perfect chance to explore at our own pace. The street, lined with shops and food establishments, felt like an inviting journey, with each stop offering something new.

One of the most exciting parts was exploring the shops that felt like mazes, packed with items. We weren’t looking for anything specific, but that made the experience even more enjoyable. Whether it was beautiful ceramics, hand-carved wooden items, or Daruma dolls and beckoning cats, each shop revealed something unique. For those who enjoy wandering without a set plan, this street is ideal. Every find felt personal, like uncovering hidden treasures.

Many shops specialised in handmade crafts, offering a true sense of local tradition. The craftsmanship was evident in every piece, from intricately designed ceramics to delicate lacquerware. These weren’t just souvenirs; they were tangible pieces of Japanese culture. Exploring these independent stores was a highlight, and the variety of items made it easy to spend hours wandering. Each shop had its own character, which added to the joy of discovering something new with every step.

One standout food experience was the yomogi mochi, a chewy rice cake flavoured with Japanese mugwort, giving it a distinct green colour and earthy taste. Topped with sweet red bean paste, it was a delightful combination. We ordered a set that came with two types, perfect for sharing. The food here felt refreshingly different from the more common tourist dishes like takoyaki, which Osaka is known for, although those are still excellent in their own right. This area, however, offered something more unique.

The street was also home to small shops selling fresh, seasonal produce. Although we didn’t try the fruits, watching locals chat with shopkeepers and browse the stalls gave the area a strong sense of community. This wasn’t just a tourist spot – it was a glimpse into daily life in Higashi Osaka.

A delightful discovery was the colourful sweet shops, brimming with nostalgic treats and traditional toys that brought out the inner child in both of us. One shop featured Ikoma Rainbow Ramune, a famous candy from nearby Nara that drew the excited attention of Japanese locals visiting the area. Their enthusiasm made me feel as though we were sharing in a local secret.

What made the street special was the warmth of the shop owners. Many were eager to chat with us and share their products. This personal connection made the shopping experience more meaningful. Each shop reflected the character of its owner, and that’s what made visiting these independent shops so enjoyable. It wasn’t just about shopping – it was about connecting with the local community.

For visitors who love discovering hidden gems and taking home something meaningful, Ishikiri’s shopping street is a must. It’s a place to explore, meet locals, and immerse yourself in authentic Japanese culture.

Lunch and Other Eating Experiences

Much like the spiritual energy of the shrine, the rest of the area carried a peaceful, welcoming vibe that enhanced our entire journey. The local hospitality shone brightly, and we felt it firsthand in our interactions with shop owners and locals.

Lunch was particularly memorable at a local restaurant known for introducing yomogi udon noodles, a dish so beloved it has become synonymous with dining in the Ishikiri area. The restaurant's cozy, traditional atmosphere, with tatami seating and a stunning garden view—complete with koi carp and water wheels—made the meal even more special. The udon itself was a standout dish. The noodles had a faint green hue from the Japanese mugwort, which added a subtle, earthy flavour. Paired with a dipping sauce made from soy sauce, wasabi, spring onions, and a quail egg, it was a satisfying and refreshing meal that left us wanting more.

We also tried oden, a comforting Japanese dish of assorted ingredients simmered in a savoury broth. Our selection included daikon (a type of radish), chikuwa (a type of fish cake), potatoes, and fried tofu. The daikon was especially juicy, absorbing all the delicious broth, and the warm flavours were perfect for the breezy day.

After lunch, we continued exploring the local food offerings along the shopping street. One interesting find was kelp tea (konbucha), which had a slightly salty, tangy flavour. It provided a refreshing break from the sweeter treats we sampled earlier. Another stop introduced us to extremely hard biscuits. Though warned about their toughness, the deep crunch and subtle sweetness made them enjoyable. These biscuits, known for their long shelf life, were even said to be taken by ninjas as rations during their journeys. We also sampled sweet biscuits adorned with Ishikiri-Tsurugiya Shrine designs, a lighter contrast to the hard variety.

The rice samples we tried were another highlight. The brown, flavoured sticky rice had a rich, savoury taste, while the red bean rice – often enjoyed during celebrations – offered a lighter, more delicate flavour, making it fun to compare the two. But the standout treat was the pineapple daifuku , a delightful sweet made from soft mochi filled with fresh pineapple and cream—a fruity twist that was light and refreshing. The chestnut pastry, perfect for autumn, rounded out our food adventure, with its smooth, sweet chestnut filling.

The warmth of the shop owners made these experiences even more memorable. They not only offered samples but surprised us with extra treats and barley tea. It was a wonderful showcase of Japan’s omotenashi—the spirit of hospitality. This generosity made the journey feel even more special, transforming it from a simple outing into a deeper, more personal connection.

Cultural Experience: Weaving Workshop

After sampling local delicacies and exploring the charming shops, we enjoyed a hands-on experience at a local kawachimomen weaving workshop. (Kawachimomen is a traditional cotton fabric from the Kawachi region, known for its durability and often dyed with natural indigo.) Higashi Osaka, renowned for its craftsmanship, or monozukuri, made this workshop an especially meaningful experience.

The atmosphere was welcoming and relaxed. The staff eagerly shared their passion for weaving, and any hesitation we felt quickly disappeared as we began choosing thread colours and weaving our own pieces. Watching the pattern form as we moved the threads was calming, almost meditative—a therapeutic break from the fast pace of daily life. The women guiding us reassured us that mistakes were part of the charm, a nod to the philosophy of wabi-sabi, finding beauty in imperfection.

The second part of the workshop involved using a spinning wheel to stretch cotton into string. This part of the process required more patience, but it was rewarding to see the final product come together. By the end, we had created a coaster and gained a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship behind this traditional art.

Leaving the workshop, I felt a stronger connection to Japan’s rich cultural heritage. This was an opportunity to engage with a tradition that defines the local community. For travellers seeking immersion in Japanese culture, experiences like this offer a rare and authentic glimpse into the country’s artisanal past.

The View from Hotel Seiryu: Reflection and Rest

After a full day of exploring, we arrived at the top of the hill at Hotel Seiryu, known for its panoramic views over Osaka. The day had been filled with cultural discoveries and meaningful interactions, but this final stop offered a moment of rest and reflection.

The hotel exuded traditional Japanese charm, and while we didn’t visit the onsen, the true highlight for us was the view. From the terrace, we could see across the city, with landmarks like Abeno Harukas and Cosmo Tower in the distance. Even on an overcast day, the view was stunning—an expansive panorama of Osaka set against distant mountains and Osaka Bay.

It was the perfect spot to relax and share our thoughts on the day. As we sipped our drinks and looked out over the city, there was a sense of tranquillity, a moment to pause and appreciate everything we had experienced. From the ancient traditions at the shrine to the warmth of the locals, it was the perfect ending to our journey through Higashi Osaka.

For travellers looking to combine spiritual and physical rejuvenation, a visit to Hotel Seiryu offers the ideal way to wrap up a day of exploration. Whether you’re soaking in the onsen or simply taking in the view, it’s a place where you can truly reflect on your experience.

A Call to Experience Real Japan

Higashi Osaka offers travellers a chance to step away from the usual tourist trail and immerse themselves in an authentic, culturally rich experience. From the spiritual energy of Ishikiri-Tsurugiya Shrine to the warm, welcoming locals in the shopping street, every part of this journey felt genuine and connected to the heart of Japanese tradition.

Whether tasting local food, exploring unique crafts, or participating in a hands-on cultural experience like kawachimomen weaving, Higashi Osaka provides an unforgettable journey of discovery. The serene views from Hotel Seiryu round off the experience, offering a moment of reflection after a day filled with meaningful encounters.

For those seeking an immersive cultural adventure, Higashi Osaka is a must-visit. It’s more than just sightseeing; it’s about feeling connected—to the place, the people, and the traditions that make Japan so captivating. This is the Japan you’ll carry with you long after you’ve left.